Chicks with Knives at Test Kitchen

Green Beans

Chicks with Knives popped up at Test Kitchen last Thursday. I last saw Suzanne Griswold and Rachael Narins helping out the Starry Kitchen team when they were at Test Kitchen, right after I bought pickles from the two at their pickles pop up shop at Starry Kitchen in DTLA. Confusing? Not really! As the Chicks with Knives would say, be sharp!

Presenting 7 courses, the Chicks took us through a journal of savory, sweet, tart and the unexpected surprise or two. Entitled Root Down, the dinner benefited Root Down LA.

The first course, the green beans were deftly fried and garnished with an edible flower. You know me and veggies, I gobbled up those things and was pretty soon wondering how could I finangle some more.

Potato Potato

The surprise was this soup. I enjoy tart things and this buttermilk pota(y)to pota(h)to soup hit all the right notes of a deconstructed chips and dip. Imagine your favorite ruffly chip with a really good sour cream and chives dip. I wished for more chips.

A Nice Salad

I was way excited to see fennel in this salad. Although it had been hellishly hot only a few days before, I was ready to swing into Autumn. This menu was easing me in. It was a very nice salad indeed with fennel, persimmon, celery and chorizo.


After much whispered conferring, we decided the round mound must be the parsnip souffle. At first, I thought it was cheese. Texturally, it reminded me of Indian paneer. The ravioli was very well done with rabbit and attractively garnished with a baby peeled carrot.

Wood Fired Herring

Test Kitchen in its former life of a pizza restaurant has a wood-burning oven. The Chicks made good use of them and created an outstanding dish of herring. With the tart elements of onion and mustard to balance out the fish.

Rib Eye

The most anticipated course for me was the rib eye. I saw the Chicks tweeting about using a sous vide machine. And as expected, the meat was exceedingly tender. The mash with parsley root was so interesting to me. It had the hint of fresh herb flavor without actually using an of the green leaves.

Trio of Autumn Flavors

Pumpkin pot de creme, chocolate cake with beet and an apple tart tatin. My favorite was the pumpkin pot de creme with sorbet.

Sign up for the Chicks with Knives supper club.

And get their pickles at Artisinal LA in a few weeks.

Now the question is, what’s my next Test Kitchen meal?

Read about my other Test Kitchen Adventures

Red Medicine

Ricardo Zarate’s Cebiche Night


Starry Kitchen

The Three Young Sous

Test Kitchen
9575 W. Pico Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90035

Reservations online only.