Koreatown: Dinner at Commissary
Commissary is the latest to open at the Line Hotel. Like POT, the Cafe and room service, the food is by Roy Choi. The beautiful restaurant is on the second floor next to the pool. It looks like a green house and it’s been said it’s more veggie focused of all of Roy’s spots. However, me being me ordered what I liked; meaty comforting bites and lots of drinks.
I was immediately attracted to the French dip, a very Los Angeles sandwich. Growing up, I had Phillipe’s every other week with my grandfather. This dip brings back so many memories but it’s even better than it looks. With excellent beef, good cheese and perfectly flavorful au jus, this was definitely one of my favorites of the evening.
Bartender Matthew Biancaniello who consulted on the opening list of cocktails at Pot Bar also created the drinks at at Commissary. They’re all very refreshing and light enough to go with the food. The first drink I had was the White Fir since I simply adore Calisaya, an orange liqueur. I’m not surprised Matt went with passion fruit as that’s one of his favorite fruits to work with plus it should be yours too. The tart fruit blends easily with the slightly bitter Calisaya. All the drinks are served in tubs which was really amusing.
White Fir – Calisaya, passion fruit
Being a fan of potato products, I also picked out the hash browns. I loved how these were super crispy and simply seasoned with salt and pepper.
Next we had a rush of seafood starting with the scallops. At Commissary, there are 5 sauces they consider their mother sauces. There’s brown sauce (chili, soy), green sauce (garlic), red sauce (chili, garlic, onion), yellow sauce (onion, soy) and rainbow sauce (nuts, garlic, chili). The scallops are lightly seared and served with green sauce. When scallops are done right, they are always amazing. And these were done just right. I like mine just barely cooked with a nice sear.
The black bass would definitely be considered “a nice piece of fish.” Served with buttered peas and brown sauce, the skin was crackly crispy. We loved the peas so much!
I was surprised by how much I loved the radishes in green sauce. With a hint of spice, lemon, a nice sprinkling of Parmesan cheese, this was a great side dish for the seafood.
This past summer I was cooking a lot of okra with a little bit of tomato to help with the slime factor that some detest but I actually enjoy. This drink is like the liquid version of those two loves of mine.
Tomato and Okra – cachaca, green heirloom zebra tomato, lovage
I had heard about the schnitzel as the thing to get at Commissary. Like all the dishes we had so far, this was done very well. The coating was crispy without being greasy. The schnitzel is served with a generous amount of greens and yellow sauce. Make sure you go early to order it as it’s been selling out.
What do you get when you mix two of the mother sauces together? Awesome sauce. The corn is served with both red and yellow sauces. The onion is amped up with both sauces and I believe the soy is the key ingredient to bring out the savory notes in the corn.
We also had carrots (not shown) which were amazing. And I don’t even like carrots. They’re roasted and grilled giving them a slightly sweet taste. And they’re served with the green sauce.
I shared a White Peach with a friend. Like the other drinks, this was very refreshing. I also imagine this would be a good brunch drink. Think of it as your new Bellini. Pisco just makes it a little bit more modern and grown up.
White Peach – pisco, white peach, anise hyssop
And the dish that stole the show was the pasta which isn’t served with a sauce. It is simply cooked with chili, lemon and garlic. I loved the fresh herbs and I ate this mostly with the fish and schnitzel.
Commissary is open for lunch as well. I can’t wait to swing by to try the burger, deviled eggs, clams or I just might have to get the French dip again.
Commissary at the Line Hotel3515 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles, CA 90010 — (213) 368-3030 © The Minty 2014